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Lynch's

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

Lynch's gained notoriety as the restaurant that declared itself a baby-free zone, but that's not what defines this fine diner. The new owners have maintained the spirit of the establishment - and much of the memorabilia that original owner Paul Lynch collected in the decades he presided. There's the original hand-written menu from 1977 and the framed drawings of hanky-panky in the park that also appear on the menu covers. The old place has been spruced up rather handsomely, with dark colours and a handful of elegantly refurbished private rooms upstairs. At a time where most restaurants are big, modern and open, Lynch's stands out for its intimate dining rooms, old-fashioned affluence and polished service.

In food terms, the menu hasn't changed much either, offering the same dishes for lunch as it does for dinner. The menu isn't extensive, but there's quite enough choice to keep diners happy. The signature dishes - Caesar salad, fish and chips, corned beef and mash and sticky date pudding - are all there, and they are still very satisfying. But there are more contemporary flavours available as well. Perhaps a confit duck leg with a warm salad of pistachio and plums or a venison pie with a golden pastry lid will tempt the palate as well as the eye. There are oysters and steaks, too, should you want them, and many of the suited businessmen who dine at Lynch's do. If there's a bouillabaisse among the specials, you ought to order it because they do this classic with delectable style. The wine list is extensive and well chosen, with some delightful drops by the glass.

Rita Erlich, May 2008