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The French Brasserie

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

The French Brasserie has taken over where The Italian left off when it moved to a larger location. It's tricky to find the first time you visit, since it's hidden down a laneway off Flinders Lane, but familiarity will breed content and an unerring sense of direction. Inside, the long space is dominated by a bar on one side and the walls are dotted with classic French posters. Leaving no doubt as to the authenticity of the place, French-born restaurateur Hadj Sadki (who's had plenty of experience in Melbourne) has teamed up with fellow Frenchie and chef, Frederic Naud. Together they have created a smart and welcoming eating place.

French bistro food has lots of typical dishes - onion soup, terrines, salade Nicoise, snails, steak and frites. They're all here, perfectly prepared and attractively presented. The porterhouse came with Cafe de Paris butter and a bowl of golden shoestring fries as well as an extra bowl of nicely dressed salad. Look out for less familiar dishes, such as the snapper fillets and shellfish cooked a la mariniere, served alongside a dish of baby vegetables. Note that this is a French eatery in a part of town where Italian restaurants dominate - no risotto or pasta here. The menu has seasonal variety and there are always specials of the day. A reasonably priced, well chosen wine list that's mainly French and Australian is the icing on this rather delicious gateau.

Rita Erlich, April 2008